23 August 2007

Ein halbes Jahr später

Gerade habe ich im Blog von Freunden herumgestöbert, die in den letzten Monaten in Nairobi Kenia lebten - und kam damit auf die Idee, einen Eintrag darüber zu machen, wie ich mich in der Schweiz wieder eingelebt habe, wie ich jetzt zurückschaue und was von diesem Gabunaufenthalt noch weiterlebt.
Wenige Tage nach meiner Rückkehr begann ich bereits mein folgendes Praktikum auf dem medizinischen Notfall des Inselspitals in Bern. Die Heimreise gestaltete sich nach einigen Wirren schliesslich erstaunlich reibungslos; am Abend zuvor merkte ich, dass ich das Rückflugticket nicht mehr hatte - war es wie auch anderes schon aus meinem Zimmer gestohlen worden? Trotz langen Durchsuchungsaktionen inklusive dem ganzen Abfall kam es nicht mehr zu Tage. So fuhr ich halt in Begleitung von Owen mit einem Fahrer des Spitals ohne Ticket ab. Owen schuldete mir nach wie vor Geld, welches er wie auch bereits in Port Gentil von seinen Verwandten in Librevill einzutreiben gedachte, die ihn ihrerseits noch Geld schuldeten. In Port Gentil waren damals alle Schuldner gerade abwesen oder per Telefon "einfach nicht zu erreichen". Diesmal sassen wir selbst fest. Der Fahrer hatte uns beim Hotel Tropicana abgesetzt, wo Lea und Theo schon zwei Tage früher eingetroffen waren. Ich sass absolut auf dem Trockenen, hatte gerade noch knapp 500 CFA auf meiner Telefonkarte (ca. 1,25 Fr.), was für etwa einen halben Anfruf reichen würde, hatte nicht mal mehr Geld für ein Taxi und Lea und Theo waren auch nicht da. Das war so absurd, dass Owen und ich nur noch lachen konnten. Wir gingen schliesslich ohne viel Hoffnung zu Fuss richtung Flughafen, um einen funktionierenden Geldautomaten zu finden - aber der am Flughafen war ausser Betrieb. In der Nähe fanden wir einen Weiteren und - oh Wunder - er spuckte Geld aus und befreite uns zum zweiten Mal aus einer etwas misslichen Lage. Lea hatte es dann noch irgendwie geschafft ohne Beleg mein e-ticket in ein Ticket umzuwandeln, womit die Probleme gelöst waren und sogar noch eine kurze Tour auf einen Markt drinlag, wo ich mir noch ein paar rocaillesbesetzte Riemchen-Ballerinas erstehen konnte, es aber leider für den Stoff, den ich noch kaufen wollte nicht mehr reichte.
Nun, zurück zum Praktikum an der Insel. Ich, die ich mich früher immer eingesetzt habe, wenn Kollegen über Patienten herzogen, die wegen irgendwelchen kleinen Bobos auf dem Notfall erschienen, musste mich auch erst wieder an Schweizer Masstäbe gewöhnen. Gewöhnungsbedürftig war für mich wirklich, dass Leute wegen einem seit 2 Tagen andauernden Schnupfen mit allenfalls etwas Fieber auf dem Universitätsnotfall erscheinen - wo sie dann 6 Stunden warten, breitestens abgeklärt werden, und schliesslich mit einem Rezept für Dafalgan wieder entlassen werden, das sie sich für 3,50 Fr. auch selbst in der Apotheke hätten kaufen können. Die Kosten für das Notfall-Intermezzo werden sich wohl gegen die 500 Fr. belaufen; ein teures Dafalgan... Es hatte aber auch Gutes. Aufgrund der vorhandenen Ausgangslage (Zeit, Strukturen) kann man sich hier viel besser mit psychischen Problematiken auseinandersetzen, die in Afrika angesichts der (scheinbar?) prominenteren physischen Erkrankungen weitgehend ausser Acht gelassen werden - wenn man das in der Schweiz als Arzt denn auch will. So hatte ich mir mit einem Oberarzt Ärger eingehandelt, als ich mich für eine Patientin einsetzte, die unter einer deutlichen akuten und sich zuspitzenden psychosozialen Belastungssituation litt und gerne einige Tage ins Kriseninterventionszentrum der Insel aufgenommen worden wäre. Der Oberarzt wollte sie wieder nach Hause schicken, obwohl sie bereits das dritte Mal innert den letzten 5 Tagen hyperventilierend auf dem Notfall erschien.
Rückblickend hatte mich auch gerade die limitierte Diagnostik und die begrenzten finanziellen Mittel der afrikanischen Patienten viel gelernt; ich musste mir genau überlegen, weshalb ich eine bestimmte Untersuchung brauchte und was für eine Konsequenz sie haben würde, auch oft mich für die Wichtigere von zwei Wichtigen Untersuchungen entscheiden musste, da das Geld einfach nicht gereicht hat. Ich habe erst die wirklich relevanten Laborparameter herauszupicken gelernt und diese zu beurteilen gelernt. In der Schweiz war ich zuvor meist mit der Fülle der abgeklärten Laborparametern überfordert. Meistens konnte mir auch Asssistenzärzte nicht erklären, wozu nun die abgeklärten Parameter im "Eintrittslabor" nun wirklich dienen; "wir machen das hier halt so", "ja, dieser Wert ist ausserhalb der Norm, das ist aber nicht relevant"...??!
Die Praktika nach Afrika gaben mir auch Struktur, so dass ich automatisch wieder ins Schweizer Schritttempo und die Schweizer Mentalität eingeführt wurde. Nach dem Notfall-Prakti folgte ein Anästhesiologie-Praktikum und darauf ein ganz kurzfristig organisiertes Praktikum in einer Walk-in-Notfall-Klinik. Mit allen Praktika hatte ich sehr Glück; ich konnte sehr selbstständig arbeiten, wurde auch geteacht und hatte tolle Teams um mich herum.
Anfangs Mai begannen dann die Vorlesungen des Schlusskurses und ich entschied mich nun definitiv, danach noch ein weiteres Wahlstudienjahr anzuhängen, bevor ich im nächsten Sommer an die Schlussprüfungen gehen würde. Nachdem es mir Ende letzten Jahres ja wirklich nicht sehr gut ging, wollte oder musste ich einen Gang tiefer schalten. Ich bin aber auch gar nicht so traurig darüber; ich hatte mir ja bereits früher lange überlegt, ein zweites Wahlstudienjahr zu machen und es gibt noch so Vieles das ich noch sehen möchte, dass dieses Zusatzjahr sogar schon wieder viel zu kurz ist.
Ich habe nach wie vor noch Kontakt zu einigen wenigen gabonesischen Freunden, z.T. über Telefon, manchmal per e-mail. Die Telefonverbindungen lassen sich meist erst nach etlichen Versuchen aufbauen und sind meist so schlecht, dass man sich kaum versteht - da ich mich ja dann noch auf Französisch verständige, macht die Sache auch nicht leichter. Der e-mail-Kontakt war eingie Wochen nicht möglich, da in Lambaréné sämtliche Internet-Verbindungen nicht mehr funktionierten. Leider kommen aber auch bei funktionierenden Leitungen nur sehr wenig Mails - sie scheinen eher schreibfaul zu sein. Ehrlicherweise muss man aber auch sagen, dass es nicht unbedingt motivierend ist, zuerst in die Stadt zu einem Internetcafé zu reisen, um überhaupt e-mails schicken zu können.
Für Guillaume hätte ich im März diesen Jahres gerne einen Ausstellungsplatz an der Jugend-Art in Olten organisiert, um ihm eine Plattform für seine Bilder zu bieten. Mein Bruder hatte dies bereits sehr erfolgreich für einen befreundeten jungen costaricanischen Künstler geschafft, der innert weniger Stunden alle seine Bilder verkaufen konnte und sich damit ein Flugticket in die Schweiz leisten konnte um hier während dreier Monate zu malen und Netzwerke zu knüpfen. Nach einer zweiten erfolgreichen Ausstellung an der Jugend-Art ein Jahr später erhielt er gar eine Art Stipendium und reiste ein zweites Mal in die Schweiz. Nun, leider war ich bereits zu spät und alle Ausstellungsplätze waren bereits vergeben.
Während meiner Zeit in Gabun hatte ich viele Diskussionen mit Owen über Ausbildung und die damit verbundene Unabhängigkeit, die er als "Mitarbeiter" im Bootsunternehme seines Onkels misste. Bei diesem wohnte er damals, erhielt nur sehr unregelmässig und nach Gutdünken seines Onkels Lohn und es kam auch vor, dass sich sein Onkel mit dem Geld, das Owen ihm für einen Einkauf mitgab, für sich Dinge einkaufte und Owen das Geld nicht wieder sah. Es war eine für Afrika so typische Abghängigkeit... in der sich Owen nicht besonders wohl fühlte, aber es auch nicht danach aussah, dass sich in naher Zukunft etwas daran ändern würde. Owen hatte wie so viele andere Jugendliche die Schule abgebrochen und schien danach igendeinen missglückten Versuch hinter sich zu haben, mit Freunden eine Bar zu eröffnen, über was er nie wirklich sprechen wollte. Ich motivierte ihn, sein Leben selbst in die Hand zu nehmen, eine Ausbildung zu machen die ihn interessierte, versuchen seien Träume, von denen er massenhaft hatte, auch in die Tat umzusetzen. Es freute mich, dass er mancmal ganz enthusiastisch wurde und Pläne zu schmeiden begann, wieder in die Schule zu gehen und noch das Bac nachzuholen. Als einer der Wenigen hatte er eine Familie im Rücken, die ihm die Schule finanzieren kann und auch würde, diese Chance sollte er nutzen. Um so mehr erschrak ich, als ich kurz nach meiner Rückkehr hörte, dass er zur gleichen Zeit bei seinem Onkel ausgezogen war, sich ein appartement gemietet hatte und sich an einer Abendschule angemeldet hatte. Am morgen ging er irgendwo arbeiten. So hatte ich mir das natürlich nicht vorgestellt, ich hätte ihm geraten schrittweise zuerst die Schule zu beenden, vielleicht dann bei seinem Onkel auszuziehen - und wenn das alles wirklich geklappt hätte, den Schritt nach Ghana zu wagen, um die Informatiker-Schule zu machen, von der er träumte. Ich erschrak und hatte das Gefühl verantwortlich zu sein, dass ich ihn in etwas hineingezogen hatte, mit dem er sich völlig überforderte und das ihn in ernsthafte Lebensschwierigkeiten bringen könnte.
In der Folge kamen immer wieder kurze Telefonanrufe von ihm irgendwo aus dem Urwald, wo er mit dem Tropenholz-Schlag Geld verdiente. Ob er wirklich zu dieser Abendschule geht, wenn er so oft weg von zu Hause ist - ich hab seine Erklärungen bis jetzt nicht ganz verstanden.
Mit Bekannten, die von der Schweiz aus nach Lambaréné reiste, schickte ich jeweils Fotos und kleine Geschenke an diverse Leute mit. Eine solhe Sendung löste offenbar wahre Streitereien unter meinen Freunden aus; sie glaubten, nicht alles erhalten zu haben, was ich geschickt habe und der andere hätte sich seinen Teil davon abgezweigt; wie ich dann langsam herausbekommen habe, ging es dann aber vor allem um eine Zahnpasta, die ich bei meiner Abreise zurückgelassen habe und um die sich der eine vom andern betrogen fühlte. Diese für die Leute dort auch so typische Eifersucht und das Misstrauen, das man sonst nur ansatzweise mitbekommt, trat hier voll zu Tage. Wieder: ich kann allen, die solche Dynamiken ein bisschen verstehen wollen nur das Buch des Schweizer Ethnologen "Die Ökonomie der Hexerei oder warum es in Afrika keine Wolkenkratzer gibt" empfehlen.
Im Juli hörte ich dann, dass Lynn, Owens Schwester ihr Bac bestanden hätte. Sie, die mit ihren 20 Jahren bereits 2 Kinder hat - das finde ich wirklich eine tolle Leistung. Die auch belohnt werden soll; ich möchte ihr gerne eine schweizer Swatch-Uhr zum Abschluss schenken - mit der Hoffnung, dass sie vielleicht auch die Jüngeren der Familie etwas anspornt, die Schule abzuschliessen.
Auch aus Afrika kamen mit diversen Rückkehrern immer wieder Steinfiguren und afrikanische Kleider zu mir in die Schweiz, über die ich mich jedes Mal sehr freue. Mittlerweile habe ich eine halbe afrikanische Garderobe zusammen. Ich trage sie zwar hier kaum, dafür bräuchte es auch eine ganze Portion Mut, aber nur sie hin und wieder anzuschauen oder zu Hause zu tragen weckt jedesmal gute Erinnerungen bei mir wach - zusammen mit den vielen vergrösserten Fotos aus Gabun, die ich mir in meiner Wohnung aufgehängt habe.

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